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16th century, Elizabethan, Research, Research Publications

Queen Elizabeth I as Mother, Nurse and Caregiver of the Realm

A portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, depicted in an elaborate gown adorned with pearls and jewels, holding a globe in one hand and a scepter in the other, symbolizing her rule over England and her status as a powerful monarch.

Depicting Elizabeth I as mother of her people featured in many discourses during the Tudor queen’s reign. She had responded to her minister’s inquiries about marriage only days into her first parliament in 1559 by stating that she was content to remain a virgin and ‘a good mother of my Country’ until the time came that she should take a husband.[1] Such sentiments were reiterated by the queen four years later in her response to a petition by the Commons that she marry:

‘And so I assure you all that though after my death you may have many stepdames, yet shall you never have any a more mother than I mean to be unto you all’.[2]

Elizabeth was not the only queen who used motherhood metaphors in her ruling rhetoric. Her sister Mary had also proclaimed that, ‘I cannot tell how naturally a mother loveth her children, for I was never the mother of any; but certainly a prince and governor may as naturally and as earnestly love subjects, as the mother doth’.[3]

Motherhood also featured prominently in the political strategies of Elizabeth’s contemporary, Queen Catherine de’ Medici of France. Katherine Crawford has argued that Catherine ‘staked her political career on being considered above all to be a good mother’.[4] She utilised these positive sentiments to construct political claims for herself and to ‘alter several constitutional and ceremonial traditions of the French monarchy’.[5]

Susan Broomhall has also argued that Catherine de’ Medici’s maternal identity as a carer was foregrounded in her management of natural resources, such as tobacco plantations, and her investments in France. Both writings from the queen and those about her, as well as visual and metaphorical representations, framed Catherine’s ‘desire to protect the kingdom as a maternal instinct’ and depicted her investments as charitable labours of love for her people.[6] Indeed, many of Elizabeth I’s acts were framed as ‘tending to the common benefit of the realm’.[7] Like Catherine whose caring identity was expressed in ‘concrete terms of the financial aid that her works provided’, Elizabeth also appears to have authorised crown lands to be leased to the projectors during her reign.[8]

A historical portrait of a woman wearing a black dress and a black veil, with a white ruffled collar, depicting a serious expression.
François Clouet, Portrait of Catherine de’ Medici, c. 1560

Crown Lands and forests has been used by generations of English sovereigns to generate royal revenue via leasing out these lands to fee farms, charging rent and other taxes.[9] Crown lands were also used as forms of patronage to reward loyal subjects and under the Tudors it was common for lands to be bestowed upon favourites. However, as Katherine S. H. Wyndham has argued, in contrast to those before her Elizabeth ‘gave away hardly any land at all’ and her government ‘was not prepared to ignore what Lord Keeper Bacon described in his speech to the 1559 parliament as the “Marvellous decays and wast of the Revenue of the Crown” or at least to forget the long-term significance of whittling away the sources from which a good deal of that revenue accrued-for no return’.[10] Certainly, it appears that among the renewed push for Elizabethan economic ‘projects’ identified by Joan Thirsk, the queen desired to manage her lands more astutely to enrich both royal coffers and the wider English economy.  

While Catherine and Elizabeth both materially invested in acts of care for their people, the nature of their queenship was different. Catherine was a Queen consort, dowager and regent, while Elizabeth was Queen regnant. Elizabeth never had her own biological offspring, while Catherine gave birth to ten children, three of whom became Kings whom she mentored. The realities of Catherine’s motherhood therefore shaped how she was able to draw on this role, particularly as queen regent to her son Charles IX and then as queen mother. It was during her time as queen mother that she expressed the ‘strong desire to be a mother to all your [her son’s] subjects’.[11] This is something which Denis Crouzet has argued linked ‘diplomatic practice with feminine identity’ and linked Catherine’s identity as mother of a king to a ‘motherly figure who protects her son’s subjects’.[12]

Although Elizabeth had no biological children, this did not inhibit her ability to draw on such a metaphor. This is because mothering, as Kristen L. Geaman and Theresa Earenfight have argued, ‘was a socially constructed activity which allowed both childless women and men to participate in maternal practices such as spiritual and nurturing motherhood’.[13] By refusing to marry and have biological children Elizabeth framed herself as a wife to England and mother of its people. In the same year that she declared herself a good mother of England, she is also recorded as telling the commons, while displaying her coronation ring, that ‘I am already bound unto an husband, which is the Kingdom of England’ and ‘I have no children: for every one of you, and as many as are English, are my children’.[14] While there are two different versions of the speech with these details omitted or added in both, the queen’s reasoning was that she need not rush to marriage as she was bound to England and its people, in the same way that a wife is bound to her husband and children. As Coch has concluded, by replacing the conventional biological definition of motherhood with a metaphorical one, Elizabeth escaped practical and cultural constraints while developing ‘a powerful model of female public rule’ where she promised ‘constant, self-sacrificing love and implicitly demands, in return, her subjects’ affectionate respect’.[15]

Remaining a virgin allowed Elizabeth to, as Leah Marcus has argued, ‘preserve her independence’ and tap into other ‘fictionalized versions of herself’.[16] Indeed, Elizabeth frequently drew on different gender roles and positions. Aidan Norrie has noted that in the Golden Speech of 1601, she ‘referred to herself variously as king, prince, and queen: switching between roles and genders with ease’.[17] This was done to prove her legitimacy as woman ruler and a sole one at that; a ‘male body politic in concept while a female body natural in practice’ as Levin has argued.[18] It seems that her subjects were also attentive to the metaphorical gendered identities that the queen wrought for herself, as Norton, in his pamphlet about the Revolt of the Northern Earls, also wrote that:

‘The Queens majesty Queen Elizabeth is by al right the sovereign Lady & Mistress of us al, and of you too… Her grace is the most loving mother and Nurse of all her good subjects, to your shame and reproach of unkindnesses I say it. Her highness is the Husband of the commonwealth, married to the Realm, and the same by ceremony of ring as solemnly signified as any common marriage is’[19]

Here Norton constructs a complex metaphor of Elizabeth as both husband and mother. This reconciled early modern ideas of female sovereignty with those of power; the only way that a queen regnant could maintain power in marriage (an arrangement that saw husbands as naturally superior) was also by ‘playing the husband’.[20]

Although Elizabeth and others often referred to her as ‘king’, ‘prince’ or ‘husband’, what they did not do was to label her a ‘father’. This is because fathers and mothers had very different ‘caring’ roles to play. Kings frequently drew on ideals of fatherhood. However, such ideas were often charged more with the ‘rhetoric of authority’ and order that underlay expectations of fathers under patriarchalism, which drew parallels between households and kingdoms headed by fathers and kings who upheld power.[21]  This included keeping other heads of households (that is, men) in line and providing for their families. These stand in contrast to Elizabeth whose status as a mother to England appealed more holistically to general care and employment for all her subjects, including those who were ‘impotent and lame’.[22]

The maternal trope remained a fixture of the queen’s speeches from roughly 1559-1563.[23] However, even after the Queen stopped explicitly calling herself ‘mother’, many continued to frame her as their mother and caregiver. In calls for the queen to deal with the succession issue in 1566, an unnamed MP beseeched her Majesty to consider her ‘princely care and motherly love towards us your servants and children’.[24] In 1569, the English lawyer, politician and playwright Thomas Norton chastised those who had rejected ‘a most gracious Queen our most dear mother, nurse and protectrice’ during the Revolt of the Northern Earls.[25]

Sir Harrington referred to Elizabeth as a royal godmother and this state’s natural mother. In 1578 on a progress in which the Queen sought to cultivate religious and political conformity within the Kingdom, representatives from the City of Norwich welcomed her as ‘My Princess and my peerless Queen, my loving Nurse and Mother’, and then farewelled her with ‘Farewell, oh Queen, farewell, oh Mother dear’.[26] The description of the queen as a ‘nurse’ repeatedly in Norton’s tract and in many others draws attention to the caring qualities that defined mothers and motherhood. It also alludes to wet-nurses and breastfeeding, just as mothers nursed their children with their breast milk the queen nursed and nourished her people via her caregiving acts for the realm.

As previously discussed, the portrayal of Elizabeth as a nurse was common during her reign. Carole Levin has collected many examples of the queen being referred to as such.[27] These were not associations that Elizabeth shied away from. The famous Pelican Portrait of the queen from c.1575, named so due to the pelican jewel that the queen wears, demonstrates this.[28] The pelican symbol connected Elizabeth with her two separate identities: the virgin (the pelican has been connected to the Virgin Mary since at least the time of St Ambrose) and a nursing mother of her people.[29] The pelican was a symbol of motherly love as they were said to pluck their breasts to feed their young in times of famine, just as a mother nurses her infant from her breast.[30] As Susan Doran has succinctly written, the ‘pelican in piety well suited a ruler described by Protestants as the nursing mother of the Church’.[31] The term ‘nurse’ was inherently gendered, as it derives from the Anglo-Norman nourice, meaning a woman who takes care of a child and during the early modern period it was commonly used when referring to those who took on mothering roles, such as wet-nurses who nursed (breastfed) children or nursemaids (nannies).[32]

Portrait of Elizabeth I, Queen of England, dressed in an elaborate red gown with intricate beadwork and adorned with a crown and pearl jewelry, symbolizing her royal status.
Nicholas Hilliard, The Pelican Portrait, Elizabeth I, 1575

Later in the seventeenth century, depicting England as a nursing mother to her people was common in political conversations as breast feeding by English mothers was thought to transmit ‘physical health’, a ‘strong moral character’ and strong sense of national identity to their children.[33] So much emphasis was placed on these ideas in the Stuart period that Rachel Trubowitz has argued that rulers such as James I, Charles I and Oliver Cromwell used the nursing father, a ‘potent, divine image of feminized masculinity’, to cultivate the support and love of their people and even to strengthen arguments for the union of England and Scotland.[34] While it is not the scope of this chapter to determine whether Elizabeth was the genesis of this renewed focus on nursing monarchy in English political thought that was then taken up by the Stuarts, it is certainly a rhetorical device that she used and supported. To look after a child as a real or metaphorical nursing mother, or father, involved real concern for their health and wellbeing.

During the reign of Elizabeth I, letters patent for new industries such as seed oil and even saltpeter were framed around the Queen’s image as a caring and nursing mother to her people; a woman who sought to enrich not only the crown but her people who relied on her for nourishment and protection.


I explore these ideas and more in my new book chapter titled ‘The Soap-makers and the Queen: The Rhetoric of Maternalism in the ‘Oil Affairs’ of Late Sixteenth-Century England’, which examines debates about oil production in England during the 1570s. This chapter is published in the new edited collection: Queens, Queenship, and Natural Resource Management in Premodern Europe, 1400-1800, edited by Susan Broomhall, Clare Davidson (Routledge, 2025).

Cover of the book 'Queens, Queenship, and Natural Resource Management in Premodern Europe, 1400-1800', edited by Susan Broomhall and Clare Davidson, featuring an illuminated manuscript design.

You can find out more about my chapter and others here: https://www.taylorfrancis.com/chapters/edit/10.4324/9781032723068-10/soap-makers-queen-sarah-bendall?context=ubx&refId=86e3b799-e9dd-4c6a-8aac-0113928975d7


References

[1] Christine Coch, ‘“Mother of my Contreye”: Elizabeth I and Tudor Constructions of Motherhood’, English Literary Renaissance 26, no. 3 (1996): 423; Queen Elizabeth I first speech before parliament, February 10, 1559, Version 1, in Leah S. Marcus, Janel Mueller and Mary Beth Rose, eds. Elizabeth I: Collected Works (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000), 58.

[2] Jan 28, 1563, transcribed in Marcus, Mueller and Rose, Elizabeth I, 72.

[3] Quoted in Coch, ‘Elizabeth I and Tudor Constructions of Motherhood’, 424.

[4] Katherine Crawford, ‘Catherine de Medicis and the performance of political motherhood’, Sixteenth Century Journal 31, no. 3 (2000): 657.

[5] Crawford, ‘Catherine de Medicis and the performance of political motherhood’, 653, 672.

[6] Susan Broomhall, The Identities of Catherine de’ Medici (Leiden: Brill, 2021), 263-98.

[7] TNA: SP 12/126, fol.145v.

[8] Broomhall, The Identities of Catherine de’ Medici, 286.

[9] Daniel W. Hollis, ‘The Crown Lands and the Financial Dilemma in Stuart England’, Albion 26, no. 3 (1994): 420–24; Katherine S. H. Wyndham, ‘Crown Land and Royal Patronage in Mid-Sixteenth Century England’, Journal of British Studies 19, No. 2 (1980): 18–34.

[10] Wyndham, ‘Crown Land and Royal Patronage in Mid-Sixteenth Century England’, 33.

[11] Quoted in Denis Crouzet, ‘“A strong desire to be a mother to all your subjects”: A Rhetorical Experiment by Catherine de Medici’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies 38, no. 1 (2008): 113.

[12] Crouzet, ‘A Rhetorical Experiment by Catherine de Medici’, 113-4.

[13] Kristen L. Geaman and Theresa Earenfight, ‘Neither heir nor spare: Childless queens and the practice of monarchy in pre-modern Europe’, in The Routledge History of Monarchy, eds. Woodacre, Lucinda H.S. Dean, Chris Jones, Zita Rohr and  Russell Martin (London: Routledge, 2019), 521.

[14] Queen Elizabeth I first speech before parliament, February 10, 1559, Version 2, transcribed in Marcus, Mueller and Rose, Elizabeth I, 59.

[15] Coch, ‘Elizabeth I and Tudor Constructions of Motherhood’, 424-25.

[16] Leah Marcus, ‘Shakespeare’s Comic Heroines, Elizabeth I, and the Political Uses of Androgyny’, in Women in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, ed. Mary Beth Rose (Syracuse: Syracuse University Press, 1986), 138.

[17] Aidan Norrie, ‘Kings’ Stomachs and Concrete Elephants: Gendering Elizabeth I through the Tilbury Speech’, Royal Studies Journal 6, no. 2 (2019): 186.

[18] Carole Levin, The Heart and Stomach of a King: Elizabeth I and the Politics of Sex and Power, Second edition (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2013), 121.

[19] Thomas Norton, To the Quenes Maiesties poore deceyued subiectes of the north countrey, drawen into rebellion by the Earles of Northumberland and Westmerland (London: 1569), Biijv.

[20] Levin, The Heart and Stomach of a King, 135.

[21] Laura Gowing, Gender Relations in Early Modern England (Edinburgh Gate: Pearson, 2012), 28, 37.

[22] BL: Lansdowne Vol/22, fol. 90.

[23] Allison Machlis Meyer, Telltale Women: Chronicling Gender in Early Modern Historiography (University of Nebraska Press, 2021), 71-2.

[24] T. E. Hartley, Proceedings in the Parliaments of Elizabeth I, vol. 1 (Leicester: Leicester University Press, 1981), 157.

[25] Norton, To the Quenes Maiesties poore deceyued subiectes of the north, Aiiijv.

[26] These examples are cited in Levin, The Heart and Stomach of a King, 87. For more on the 1578 progress see: Dustin M. Neighbours, ‘With My Rulinge’: Agency, Queenship and Political Culture through Royal Progresses in the Reign of Elizabeth I (PhD diss., University of York, 2016), 82-120.

[27] Levin, The Heart and Stomach of a King, 87, 195.

[28] Attributed to Nicholas Hillard, Elizabeth I, ‘The Pelican Portrait’, c. 1575, oil on panel. Walker Art Gallery, WAG 2994.

[29] Susan Doran, ‘Virginity, Divinity and Power: The Portraits of Elizabeth I’ in The Myth of Elizabeth, eds. Susan Doran and Thomas S. Freeman (London: Palgrave, 2003), 178.

[30] Roy Strong, The Elizabethan image: an introduction to English portraiture, 1558 to 1603 (Yale University Press, 2019), 34.

[31] Doran, ‘Virginity, Divinity and Power’, 179.

[32] ‘nourice, n.’ OED Online, Oxford University Press, 2022. https://www.oed.com/view/Entry/128701 (accessed October 07, 2022).

[33] Rachel Trubowitz, Nation and Nurture in Seventeenth-Century English Literature (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2012), 3-4, 37, 42.

[34] Trubowitz, Nation and Nurture, 94-97.

reconstruction, Research, Research Publications

New Publication + Free Preview

I’m delighted to announce that my new edited volume, Embodied Experiences of Making in Early Modern Europe: Bodies, Gender, and Material Culture, co-edited with Serena Dyer, has been published by Amsterdam University Press.

You can read the foreword and introduction for FREE, here.

This volume focuses on the body of the maker to ask how processes of making, experimenting, experiencing, and reconstructing illuminate early modern assumptions and understandings around manual labour and material life. Answers can be gleaned through both recapturing past skills and knowledge of making and by reconstructing past bodies and bodily experiences using recreative and experimental approaches. In drawing attention to the body, this collection underlines the importance of embodied knowledge and sensory experiences associated with the making practices of historically marginalised groups, such as craftspeople, women, domestic servants, and those who were colonised, to confront biases in the written archive. The history of making is found not only in technological and economic innovations which drove ‘progress’ but also in the hands, minds, and creations of makers themselves.

We have some amazing contributors who cover a wide range of topics. Here is the table of contents:

List of Tables
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Foreword – Evelyn Welch
1. The Bodies of Makers – Sarah A. Bendall and Serena Dyer
PART I: Making and Embodied Knowledge
2. Bodies and Gender Identities in the Making of Silk Fibre in Seventeenth-Century France – Susan Broomhall
3. Bodies and Spices in the Early Modern European, South Asian, and Southeast Asian Worlds – Amanda E. Herbert and Neha Vermani
4. Attending to the Tacit; Or, Knowledge Trickles Upwards – Leonie Hannan
PART II: Re-Making and Embodied Experiences
5. ‘Your Companions Will Teach You’: Makers’ Knowledge in Renaissance Cosmetics Recipes – Jill Burke and Wilson Poon
6. Beautiful Experiments: Reading and Reconstructing Early Modern European Cosmetic Recipes – Erin Griffey with Michél Nieuwoudt
7. Remaking Sixteenth-Century Botanical Woodblocks: Embodied Artisanal Knowledge in Early Modern Woodcutting – Jessie Wei-Hsuan Chen
8. Generating Bodies: Investigating Foundation Garments and Maternity through Making – Sarah A. Bendall and Catriona Fisk
Index

For more information about the book, visit the AUP website.

16th century, public talk or workshop

Make a 16th-century Farthingale with me!

Come and make a 16th-century Spanish farthingale with me using historically accurate materials and methods, including hoops of bent!! 🧵 🪡


On Saturday the 15 March, I’m teaching a one-day workshop at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades in a partnership between Australian Catholic University in Ballarat, Australia. Int he workshop you will make a half-scale Spanish farthingale based on this surviving example from Spain.

Image Courtesy of Rebecca Unsworth

You’ll also get to make hoops from bents, just like Queen Elizabeth I’s tailors and farthingale makers did!

All methods are taught so that they’re easily replicated at home, ensuring your sixteenth century tailoring journey continues well after the class. At the end of the day, you will get to take your creation home.

Click HERE to go to the centre’s website to book. You can also find out more about what you’ll need to bring and what you’ll learn.

17th century, Bodies and Stays, pattern, Seventeenth-century fashion, Stuart

Top 5 Books for Making 17th-Century Dress – New YouTube Video!

I’ve decided to launch a YouTube Channel where I will be talking about all things early modern dress, fashion and material culture.

I’ve just released my first video on my top 5 books for those wanting to make 17th-century dress.



Please like and subscribe!

17th century, Bodies and Stays, reconstruction, Research, Stuart, Tailoring, Tutorial

Making a 1650s Bodice and Gown




In 2021 I set about reconstructing an 1650s bodice from the Museum of London (MoL), object # A7004. The pattern for this bodice is provided in Patterns of Fashion 5. While not many portraits of women in England survive from this decade (this was the time of the Interregnum government under Parliament and Oliver Cromwell), and those that do often depict sitters in deshabille (undress), there are at least 2 surviving bodices from this period in English collections that can give us some idea of what elite fashions were like in England.

In terms of silhouette and general construction, 1650s and 1660s gown bodices are very similar: highly boned with a neckline that sits off the shoulders, and with low-set cartridge pleated sleeves. This was generally true on the continent as well (especially in France and the Dutch Republic). For more on 1650s fashion and portraiture see the FIT NYC timeline here.

Bodice c. 1660s. Silk, linen, whalebone, bobbin lace, parchment, linen thread, silk thread, metal strip, hand-sewn. V&A.

While bodices from the 1660s were more likely to lace down the back, it seems that those of the 1650s could lace up the front or back. Front lacing seems to have been characteristic of the early 1650s. There is another very similar velvet bodice (almost identical in terms of construction) to the MoL one that I’ve based my costume on. That bodice is from a private collection and is believed to have been worn by a young gentry woman named Mary Daugh when she married Robert Lawrence of Sevonhampton on the 8 April 1650 (PoF, p. 53-55).

Portraits from the first half of the 1650s also depict women in front-lacing bodices (with no stomachers).

The pink Bodice worn by the woman on the right might lace up the front. Allegorical Painting of Two Ladies, English School, c. 1650. Wiki.
The bodice worn by his Dutch woman appears to lace up the front. Adriaen Hanneman, Portrait of a Woman, c. 1653, Dutch. MET.

The MoL bodice is made of aquamarine watered silk laid over an inner foundation of cream fustian stiffened with whalebone (baleen). Unfortunately, this bodice seems to have disappeared from the MoL online catalogue, but you can see images in the videos below.

I wanted to use my gown to double as a Halloween costume (a witch), so although many portraits show that soft pastels formed a lot of the colour palette of elite dress during the 1650s, I decided to go with a brown coloured silk. This brown is what I think was called ‘sad coloured’ (a description that always makes me chuckle), a colour that was common in descriptions of dress from the mid-late 17th century.

The skirt (petticoat) for this gown is based on the skirt of the Silver Tissue Dress c. 1660s at the Fashion Museum in bath. You can see detailed photographs of the bodice and skirt here. It is very characteristic of skirts in the second half of the 17th century: cartridge or knife pleats into a narrow waistband that ties at the back, as depicted on the fashion doll Lady Clapham.

Doll’s petticoat, c. 1690-1700. V&A.

Materials: 

  • 5.5m of silk taffeta (137 cm wide bolts).
  • 1m cotton drill (in place of fustian). If was to make again I’d use a thick linen or cotton canvas. 
  • <1m Silk chiffon (in place of silk sarcenet) for sleeve interlining. 
  • silk and linen threads. 
  • 8mm wide cable ties (in lieu of synthetic baleen, which I would suggest going for but I was in a pandemic lockdown so hard to source at the time).

Construction:

These videos are taken from my Instagram stories where I documented the making process as I went. They are by no means exhaustive tutorials but hopefully are useful to anyone who wants to make this bodice too!

1650s Bodice – Pattern and Materials
1650s Bodice – Boning and Assembling


1650s Bodice – Covering and Sleeves


The bodice is completely hand sewn, except for the boning channels which were machine sewn (it’s my least favourite part and I avoid hand sewing them if I can!). Some of my stitching could have been neater / closer together (I was working to a deadline so was under the pump) and there are instances where I wouldn’t have used certain materials (cotton drill), made my seams wider, etc. Overall though, I’m very happy with the result. It worked perfectly as a witch costume too.

Research

Research Engagement & Impact Survey

I am doing a brief survey asking how people engage with and use my research (including resources and posts on my blog) as well as social media such as Instagram (@sarahbendall_dresshistory).

If you would like to take part, it would be very much appreciated! The survey should take less than 5 minutes and is accessible via this link:

https://forms.gle/YJ8UUffqVqQFThfu9

If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

Experimental History, Research

Making Historical Dress Network

I’m delighted to let you all know that PI Dr Serena Dyer and I (Co-I Sarah Bendall) have just launched the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) funded 🪡 Making Historical Dress Network 🪡 today! We are so excited to be putting together a series of workshops, online talks, and a festival of remaking over the next two years!

The network aims to establish a hub for the international community of academics and practitioners who work on recreation methods in dress history, from costume makers to scholars, and from curators to YouTubers.

At the events, we’ll be encouraging discussion of best practice, terminology, how to capture and communicate tacit knowledge, and showcasing work in the field.

We will also launch a mentorship scheme, where makers and academics can learn from each other to improve both the material literacy of scholars and the academic skills of makers.

Over the coming weeks and months we will be giving more details about our events and how to get involved via our Instagram and Twitter (and eventually a website)!

Follow us below:

https://www.instagram.com/makinghistoricaldressnetwork/

17th century, Manuscript / Archival Research, Research, Seventeenth-century fashion, Stuart

Did Seventeenth-Century English Women Wear Drawers?

A question I see pop up often, and one that continues to spark much debate in online costuming communities and between historians of dress is: Did early modern women wear anything under their skirts? If so, did they wear drawers?

Susan North’s recently published book, Sweet and Clean?, is one recent scholarly text that has tackled this question. In the book she offers ample evidence for the use of drawers by men during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.[1] When it comes to women, she writes that ‘drawers for women, [is] a question that continues to baffle dress historians’.[2] She offers examples of women wearing drawers in the eighteenth century to argue that it was indeed possible for women to wear such an undergarment. However, she does not provide evidence for the seventeenth century.

Most surviving evidence of drawers being worn by women comes from sixteenth-century Italy, where sources described sex workers as wearing these garments in gender-bending displays of eroticism and the subversion of social norms.

Ferrando Bertelli (Publisher), Venetian Woman (likely a courtesan) with Moveable Skirt, 1563, Italian. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Early modern English ballads depict men and women fighting over what could be drawers or breeches, or, more literally, fighting over who wore the pants in the relationship. The wearing of drawers by women in the context of this type of moralising literature made their husband into a cuckhold, thus undermining his authority and threatening early modern ideas of masculinity.

The Jolly Widdower: / OR, / A Warning for BATCHELORS (Printed for I. Blare, at the Looking glass, on London Bridge, c. 1664-1703). The English Broadside Ballad Archive.

However, moralising literature often tells us more about anxieties early moderns held, rather than the reality of what was actually happening, especially when it comes to dress practices. In this blogpost then I want to set the record straight that, yes, women could and did wear drawers in the seventeenth century.

The earliest example from the seventeenth century is a pair of drawers on the effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey. Funerary records show that these were specially constructed in 1603, as a warrant relating to funeral expenses noted,

‘And to John Colte for the Image representing her late Majestie with a paire of straight bodies a paire of drawers…’[3]

Janet Arnold examined these drawers and noted they were likely made of fustian and gathered into a waistband that had worked eyelet holes similar to those on breeches. Whether this is a garment that Elizabeth wore (Arnold does not mention if they appear in her accounts) or if they were made to pad out the hips and legs of the effigy (they are stuffed with what appears to be hemp) is unknown.[4]

Drawers on the effigy of Elizabeth I, 1603. Westminster Abbey, London.

By the 1630s, Queen Henrietta Maria’s accounts contain multiple references to drawers made from linen and wool.

In May 1631 her French tailor George Gelin billed the wardrobe for:

‘18 pare of Holland drawers for her majesty binded with ribbon for the making of them’.[5]

On 17th August 1639, Henrietta Maria’s other tailor James Bardon

‘delivered into the office of her Majesty’s wardrobe two pair of woolen drawers for the mend & bordering of them’.[6]

Anthony van Dyck, Portrait of Henrietta Maria de Bourbon, Queen of England, c. 1636-8. San Diego Museum of Art.

While it is possible that the queen’s drawers were the result of French influence on her wardrobe (she was after all a French princess), there is also evidence that non-royalty wore these undergarments around the same time too.

In 1642, the probate inventory of the widow Elizabeth Burges of St. Nicholas Parish in Bristol recorded

‘one payer of cotten drawers at                 s. j [1 shilling]’[7]

Here cotton likely referred to a woollen fabric rather than cotton-fibre textiles. Whether these drawers belonged to Elizabeth, or another family member such as her husband is unclear.

In the 1660s Samuel Pepys made ambiguous references to the morality of his wife Elisabeth’s drawers as he was frequently concerned about whether she wore them when visiting her male dance teacher (who Pepys often suspected she was having an affair with).[8]

He recorded in his diary on the 15 May 1663 that

‘But it is a deadly folly and plague that I bring upon myself to be so jealous and by giving myself such an occasion more than my wife desired of giving her another month’s dancing. Which however shall be ended as soon as I can possibly. But I am ashamed to think what a course I did take by lying to see whether my wife did wear drawers to-day as she used to do, — and other things to raise my suspicion of her, but I found no true cause of doing it’.

James Thomson (engraver), after John Hayls, Elisaebth Pepys, c. 1825 (copy of original seventeenth-century portrait, now destroyed).

On 4 June of that same year, Pepys again wrote that

‘I whiled away the morning up and down while they got themselves ready, and I did so watch to see my wife put on drawers, which poor soul she did, and yet I could not get off my suspicions, she having a mind to go into Fenchurch Street before she went out for good and all with me, which I must needs construe to be to meet Pembleton, when she afterwards told me it was to buy a fan that she had not a mind that I should know of, and I believe it is so’.

Rather than wearing drawers indicating a lack of morals or a proclivity to promiscuity (as it did with Italian courtesans) it appears that Pepys was more concerned with whether his wife might allow her dance teacher easy access to her nether regions by not wearing this garment.

In 1688, the linen draper supplied Queen Catherine of Braganza’s wardrobe with

‘fine frieze holland for drawers for her majesty’.[9]

Although a bill does not survive, presumably it was Catherine’s seamstresses who made these linen drawers up, along with other goods from the linen supplied.

Peter Lely, Portrait of Queen Catherine of Braganza, c. 1663-5. Royal Collection.

Both men and women could wear drawers during the seventeenth century, and tailors and seamstresses made these garments for both genders. It appears that, like North has suggested for the eighteenth century, women likely wore them for warmth or riding. Or as Pepys’ diary entries suggest, even modesty. Or perhaps the comment by Pepys about his wife being a ‘pour soul’ for putting on drawers was because it was summer and the weight of all her skirts would already have been hot. Timing of the queens’ bills suggests that woolen drawers were more common in winter and linen in summer, although a much larger sample would need to be taken to determine this.

Much more research is needed the make firm statements about the history of women’s drawers in the early modern period. As Pat Poppy helpfully points out in her comment below, most of these references relate to Francophile women living in England: Henrietta Maria was a French princess and Elisabeth Pepys’ father was French (her mother was not). Catherine of Braganza’s wardrobe, as my forthcoming book will show, was also heavily influenced by French fashions. So was this a French thing?

I will continue to update this post as I come across references. But what is certain is that drawers were certainly owned and worn by some women in seventeenth century England. How widespread the practice was remains to be determined.

References


[1] Susan North, Sweet and Clean?: Bodies and Clothes in Early Modern England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2020), 126-30.

[2] North, Sweet and Clean?, 131-2.

[3] The National Archives UK (TNA), E 351/3145, fol. 25, transcribed and cited in Janet Arnold, ‘The “pair of straight bodies” and “a pair of drawers” dating from 1603 which Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey’, Costume, 41 (2007), 9.

[4] Arnold, ‘The “pair of straight bodies”’, 8-9.

[5] TNA: LR 5/64.

[6] TNA: LR 5/67.

[7] Transcribed in Edwin George, Stella George and Peter Fleming, eds., Bristol Probate Inventories, Part 1: 1542-1650 (Bristol Record Society, 2002), 125.

[8] https://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/1663/05/15/#c47569 and https://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/1663/06/04/

[9] TNA: LR 5/83.

17th century, 18th century, Manuscript / Archival Research, Research, Seventeenth-century fashion, Stuart

Second Book Announcement: The Women Who Clothed the Stuart Queens

I’m excited to finally share that I’ve signed a contract with Bloomsbury Visual Arts (an imprint of Bloomsbury Academic) for my next book,

The Women Who Clothed the Stuart Queens: Gender and Work in the Royal Wardrobe and the Fashion Marketplace

The book examines the lives and changing work of the women who made, sold, managed and cared for the clothing of five Stuart queens between 1603–1714: Anna of Denmark, Henrietta Maria, Catherine of Braganza, Queen Mary II and Queen Anne.

Using a wide range of written, visual and material sources, including extensive royal household accounts, this book explores the clothing and fashion cultures of the Stuart period through the lens of the work performed by women (and men!) who worked in the shops of London and the private chambers of the royal household, sitting at the intersection of the fashion marketplace and the royal courts.

In doing so, it recovers the material knowledge and skills of women who clothed these queens. This includes makers and sellers such as seamstresses, silkwomen, tirewomen, mantua-makers and milliners, as well as elite women such as the mistress of the robes and mistress of the sweet coffers, and servants such as laundresses and wardrobe attendants, who worked to manage and care for clothing in Office of the Robes, a sub-department of the Queens’ household.

The book demonstrates that women of all sorts were closely involved in the creation of Stuart magnificence in the fashion marketplace and royal courts of seventeenth-century England and their work was often facilitated by private informal female networks that spanned elite and non-elite structures. This ‘upstairs-downstairs’ history also focuses on under represented periods of fashion history, particularly the period 1680-1715.

I’m really looking forward to getting stuck into writing the rest of the book and looking forward to taking you all on this journey and talking more about my research in both blog and Instagram posts.