16th century, 17th century, Elizabethan, Jacobean, Rebato Collar, reconstruction, Tutorial, Uncategorized

Rebato, c. 1600-1625 | Part Five: Finishing the Rebato

  1. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part One: Brief History and Materials
  2. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Two: The Pattern
  3. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Three: Making the Wire Frame
  4. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Four: Making the Linen Collar
  5. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Five: Finishing the Rebato

010b3b9a4791e58b10474bcaf04ac3af653e851010

1. Pin the collar to the frame and check that it looks correct. Try it on!

 

95976900_242987986763606_5389020406889840640_n
2. Wrap fine wire around the outside edge of the frame, weaving in and out of the lace trim as shown.

 

01ab128064ed1bad9c6a3a7ef534cae7a04048948a
3. Weaving the wiring in and out of the lace (every 2-3 points) to create ^ ^ ^ shapes will help the lace to stick out and maintain its shape.

 

01ff5bb2c2349edf83952fb5466688e3c4b585170a
4. Finish attaching the outer edge of the collar by whip stitching the linen to the metal frame.

 

018c528ff82b4e61401481cd3a6e21eb3a62433b4a
5. Hem the inner edge of the collar. Pull the linen taught over the frame. Fold inner edge of linen collar over the inner edge of the frame and pin down.

 

011ecfc66ef1dcb353fd69cc95def3354f01bed898
6. Sew this inner edge down using a whip stitch.

 

01520a76653aa61c5119d21caaa908518330b1f007
7. Done! You can attach a little bit of ribbon (choose one that matches your outfit) to tie the sides together when wearing the rebato.

 

Finished Product

 

 

16th century, 17th century, Elizabethan, Jacobean, Tutorial

Rebato, c. 1600-1625 | Part Four: Making the Linen Collar

  1. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part One: Brief History and Materials
  2. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Two: The Pattern
  3. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Three: Making the Wire Frame
  4. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Four: Making the Linen Collar
  5. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Five: Finishing the Rebato

 

0139f177561cb525cc3c4890c2cc8b8f57056fd17a

1. Place and cut the pattern. I’m using a lightweight semi-transparent linen.

 

0104ec8b83818652f38bd1dc3588c904ff6b06bfd2
2. Hem the outside edge (narrow hem) of the collar. Pleat the inner band of the linen collar.

 

01d2f219dd124e5dfba493b0f0910114e3c9312910
3. Check that the pleats are even and the shape looks like this.

 

0117e9217d95f982bb04d05a0780f8e39932c64976
4. Check that the linen collar fits the rebato frame. Sew down the pleats and iron flat.

 

0101d3cc6c468eb5e5773e50f624961fa832ccdf22
5. Choose a decorative lace trim. Here I’m using 3cm wide guipure lace, which is a type of bobbin lace

 

01e263991b17cc0dbbead8dc22e116e649cd1b88ff
6. Sew the lace on.

 

015b53174f2191ae84bd9dd9b224685460bb2e3785
7. And your collar is finished.

16th century, 17th century, Elizabethan, Jacobean, Rebato Collar, Stuart, Tutorial, Uncategorized

Rebato, c. 1600-1625 | Part Three: Making the Wire Frame

  1. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part One: Brief History and Materials
  2. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Two: The Pattern
  3. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Three: Making the Wire Frame
  4. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Four: Making the Linen Collar
  5. Rebato, c. 1600-1625 Part Five: Finishing the Rebato

0193ee805da7a040f4523c9fc42f95ce9bb3e99b66

1. Using my pattern, draw out the shape of the rebato collar on tracing paper (or baking paper as I’m using here). I took size inspiration from looking at portraits from the period.

 

01c041659682886661e00530e49077efa03b4406fd
2. Place the paper on your mannequin or even a styrofoam head to check the size. Adjust as needed.

 

0127d6176624dc8abb3a750c7f5abc0e1e4a7a2fad
3. For the intricate loops and inner frame I chose to use two sizes of copper jewellery wire, as this was easy to bend and mould into any desired shape. I twisted these into loops with long stems as shown. They should look a bit like spoons 🥄 🥄

 

0175a81a5afb0d6f57433733183d5894bbe30c01fb
4. I placed these loops onto my pattern to check for size. It also gave me an idea of how many I would need to make, how long they should be, and how far apart they would be spaced.

 

01673d64118f8cfd678d9e31aca9835ba014998f75
5. For the outer frame of my rebato I decided to use a relatively thick galvanised tie wire that I picked up from my local hardware store. This was to make sure that the rebato would be sturdy and keep its shape. Again I kept comparing with my pattern piece to check to shape and size.

 

015d748cce0c97e6100d36f882e57566f7b0462c22
6. Place the loops on top of the outer frame to check placement.

 

01df1c62b35ab7933be23afa2ce15fbc42f3399857
7. Once you’re happy with the placement start to attach the stem of the loops by wrapping the excess wire around the frame. To secure the loops themselves use thin jewellery wire, winding it around both lots of wire as shown.

 

01209c04db253d02dbc410628d1b90210e6883c785
8. Thread other wire through the loops,, following the semi circular shape of the outer frame. This will add stability.

0107251635c7fa92b1c43bd8ffab019c0e79271368
9. Once you’ve done that the frame is finished!